The independent guide to hiking Mt Kinabalu

Rising to 4,095 metres above sea level, Mt. Kinabalu is the highest mountain in Malaysia and one of the most accessible summits in Southeast Asia. On the island of Borneo, the UNESCO World Heritage site is home to more than 5,000 species of plants, ranging from tropical rainforests at the mountain’s base to alpine shrubs near the summit. The national park is also home to more than 300 species of birds and 100 mammals, including deer, otters, and orangutans.

Overview

On the island of Borneo, Mt. Kinabalu is Malaysia’s highest mountain, at 4,095 metres above sea level. Each year, more than 20,000 people attempt the hike, which takes two days over a distance of 18 kilometres.

Mt. Kinabalu facts

· Height: 4, 095 m / 14, 435 ft

· Duration: 2 days / 1 night

· Length: 18 kms / 11 miles (return)

· Elevation gain: 2,200 m / 7217 ft

Mt. Kinabalu history

A sacred site of the Indigenous Kadazan people, Mt. Kinabalu is believed to have been created by their supreme deity Umunsumundu. The name is derived from Aki Nabalu which means ‘Revered Place of the Dead,’ and the Kadazan believe that the spirits of their ancestors reside on the mountain.

The first European to attempt the summit of Mt. Kinabalu was Hugh Low, a British colonial administrator and naturalist. His first attempt was in 1851, and he made two subsequent expeditions in 1858, though he never summitted. Despite several unsuccessful attempts, the summit of the mountain is named in his honour, Low’s Peak. It took until 1888 for a successful summit when British explorer John Whitehead ascended.

How to get to Mt. Kinabalu

Kota Kinabalu, known colloquially as KK, is the closest major city to Mt. Kinabalu. The international airport services direct flights from around Asia and connecting flights from Kuala Lumpur. From KK, Mt. Kinabalu National Park is about two hours by road. Public transport options include taxis (MYR150) and shared vans (MYR30), and both will drop you at the park entrance.

The entrance to Mt Kinabalu National Park

Where to stay near Mt. Kinabalu

There is a wide range of accommodation options in KK, ranging from backpacker hostels to five star resorts. It is possible to arrive without a booking and find somewhere to stay, with Warisan Square being a good starting point. There are some hotels closer to the national park entrance, including in the town of Ranua, while inside the park, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges provide several accommodation options with meals included.

Skill Level

Mt. Kinabalu is generally considered to be a moderate level climb, and no mountaineering experience is required. All climbers must have a permit, a guide, and be reasonably fit. Despite the relative ease of the climb, injuries and deaths have occurred, and climbers should be prepared for altitude sickness, fatigue, changes in weather and conditions, and long hours of walking.

5 essential items when hiking Mt. Kinabalu

· Hiking poles

· Wet weather gear

· Headtorch

· Thermals

· Water filtration

What it’s like to hike Mt. Kinabalu

At the break of dawn, with the clouds rising and the sky lightening, the magnificent summit of Mt. Kinabalu is unveiled. As the night sky fades from pitch black to royal blue, the jagged silhouette of the massif emerges from the darkness. Its rocky, serrated summit remains shrouded in clouds as dozens of eager climbers gather at the park entrance.

Among the crowd are experienced trekkers, with patches on their backpacks from Nepal, Peru, and Tanzania, and novice hikers in gear that appears brand new. There are small groups, couples, families, and a few solo travellers. A buzz of excitement ripples through the eager and enthusiastic crowd. Every group is assigned a guide and, when ready, driven to the starting point where a national park employee records their climber registration. From there, it is up.

The starting point for Mt. Kinabalu is the Timophon Gate, at 1,866m. Another 1,400m uphill is the Laban Rata Guesthouse, where we will spend the night. If you like hiking uphill, then this is the most enjoyable part of the hike. The trail winds upwards along a well worn path that includes wooden steps, rocky paths, tree roots, and a few puddles. Despite heavy overnight rain, the track is in good condition and not as boggy as expected. Trail markers are spaced out every 500 metres, and there are plenty of shelters along the way. The shelters include information about the geology and botany of the mountain, toilets, and some wooden seating.

For the entirety of the first morning, the summit remains hidden behind clouds. The air is moist, and it is sweaty work as the kilometres tick by. About halfway up, yesterday’s hikers begin to appear, shuffling down the trail. They are excited to have reached the summit yet also weary from the early rise. It is a glimpse of what awaits us as we bound up the mountainside.

Three hours after leaving Timophon Gate, I arrive at Laban Rata Guesthouse, among the first to finish. Inside the guesthouse, the rest of yesterday’s hikers are finishing their buffet breakfast, packing their bags, and preparing for what is going to be a slow and wet descent. For today’s hikers, we can change into dry, warm clothes and rest.

Throughout the afternoon, there are fleeting glimpses of the summit between bursts of pouring rain. The slowest hikers arrive wet and worn out yet awed by the summit being within touching distance.

After an early dinner (16:30 – 19:30), the guesthouse quietens as our tired bodies rest before the summit walk. About 1:00am the first footsteps echo along the wooden floorboards of the double storey guesthouse. Soon they are joined by hushed chatter, flushing toilets, and zips opening and closing on jackets and bags. By 1:30 am the guesthouse is in full swing and consideration for anyone clinging to their sleep is over. Another buffet of food is served from 2:00 am and half an hour later the first groups begin their hike to the summit.

In the early hours of the morning, it is cold enough for thermals, though there is no need for a down jacket. Thankfully, there is no rain. An abundance of headtorches lights the trail, and the slowest hikers depart first. The start of the trail is a lot of wooden steps, and it is here that the faster hikers overtake the slower ones. The trail then returns to a mountainside path before the greenery gives way to the rocky summit area. Emerging from the final checkpoint and the last of the tree cover, it is a slow trudge up the rocky slopes, which can be slippery in the rain and at times requires the use of ropes, which are drilled into place. Along the way, lights on the Borneo coastline shimmer, and clouds blanket the valleys below.

By the time I reach the summit, it is still dark. A gentle wind blows across the exposed peak, and sitting around for too long waiting for the sunrise is folly. There is also a long line of hikers eager to capture the moment on film. As we move across the summit area, the sky glows royal blue against the grey rocks and paints a brilliant ambience.

The descent from the summit area is careful and unhurried. For us who prefer walking uphill, this is the beginning of the end of our enjoyment of Mt. Kinabalu. The return trip to Laban Rata Guesthouse is relatively short and simple, and there is another hot meal waiting at the end. It is the second descent where considerations become challenging.

With more rain forecast for the afternoon, my guide is eager to start the descent without delay. After a breakfast of eggs, sausages, chicken ham, and hashbrowns, we begin the descent – six kilometres of downhill. It is a slow march downhill, and the steps are conspicuously uneven, something I did not notice as much on the way up. I stop more often on the way down, giving momentary relief to my knees, and turning often to view the summit. Soon enough, today’s hikers appear, and I am cast into the role of yesterday’s hiker. Halfway into the ascent, I wonder if some of them will make it, as they double over, gasping for breath, at the three kilometre mark. Others are bounding up, with no worries at all.

The trail markers continue to tick by and with 1.5 kilometres to the end, my legs are done. So many steps! If this were flat ground I could walk another 10 kilometres, but the endless steps, and uneven steps at that, are exhausting – physically and mentally. I comfort myself with thoughts of mango milkshakes in KK and the food that I will eat there. When I pass the one kilometre trail marker there is an extra spring in my step, and soon enough the final ascent (yes, ascent) appears, a trail of steps leading up to the first checkpoint. It’s done!

The start / end point of the Mt Kinabalu hike

Tips for hiking Mt. Kinabalu

· Bring a book to read in the afternoon.

· Pack some extra snacks for the summit and descent.

· There is no expectation to tip, with all guides employed by the national park.

· Bring ear plugs if you are a light sleeper.

· Book a massage in Kota Kinabalu after your hike.

The independent guide to hiking Mt Kinabalu

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