Langa & Soweto: A guide to visiting South Africa’s townships

Langa and Soweto are two of South Africa’s oldest, largest and most recognised townships. Located in Cape Town and Johannesburg, the townships offer a fascinating glimpse into the country’s turbulent past and the rainbow nation that has emerged in the post-apartheid era.

History of South Africa’s townships

South Africa’s townships, found in most of the country’s major cities, were created to segregate and control the non-white populations of South Africa. Predominantly designed for the black populations, townships were, and still are, homes for coloured and Indian people. Their placement, far from urban centres, was a deliberate strategy to restrict access to the formal economy and services. Meanwhile, living conditions were sub-standard, with poor facilities and cramped housing. In many townships, this remains the case.

The construction of Langa began in 1923, after the passing of the Native (Urban Areas) Act, and it was formally opened in 1927. From its outset, the spirit of black resistance burned brightly in Langa. As early as the 1940s, residents protested against pass laws, the construction of beer halls, and led marches against the imprisonment of political activists. Meanwhile, on the other side of the country, Soweto is South Africa’s most famous township. On the outskirts of Johannesburg, Soweto is abbreviation of South West Township and like Langa, black resistance has deep roots within the community. The most notable event was the 1976 Soweto Uprising, led by students protesting the use of Afrikaans in schools. Up to 20,000 students marched, and at least 176 were killed by police when they opened fire. The massacre inspired a new generation of anti-apartheid activists, and each year the event is commemorated with a national Youth Day.

The memorial site of Hector Zolile Pieterson in Soweto

Is it ethical to visit South Africa’s Townships?

As South Africa’s tourism sector has grown, so too have tours of townships. Visiting townships, and urban slums more broadly, is a decision that many travellers wrestle with. The ethical considerations of ‘poverty tourism’ are ever present – the feelings of voyeurism and exploitation versus the income generation and learning opportunities. They are contradictions that often feel uncomfortable, and in my experience, never go away. Is it helpful to ask yourself why you want to visit a township and be honest about your motivations. How you conduct yourself when visiting a township will reflect on all future visitors. Always ask before taking photos and think about whether posting them will represent those people in a positive light. Also, consider any ramifications or expectations if you are asked to gift or donate money. Finally, remember that townships are people homes, not museums. Ultimately, the choice to visit a township is yours, and there is a wide array of literature online to help inform your decision making.

Street performers and market stalls in Soweto

How safe are the townships?

Aside from ethics, safety is another consideration when visiting South Africa’s townships. The crime rate in South Africa is legendary, and the townships are viewed by many city dwellers as completely off limits, especially for independent travellers. When visiting Langa, it is strongly recommended to use a local guide. Incidents of car jackings and muggings, while rare, do occur. Tourists are easily recognisable in Langa, and if you wander down the wrong street, you could become a statistic. Also, a guided tour presents the opportunity to learn about the history of Langa, meet local people (some of these interactions will challenge your ethics) and understand the development of the township over its century long existence. Interestingly, while many white South Africans live in gated communities, behind high walls and electric fencing, the richest homes in Langa do not shield themselves in the same way. On my walking tour, my guide Zamile pointed out the homes of professors and businessmen. Their houses, which are comfortable by Langa standards, are protected only by simple gates and broken glass set into moderate concrete walls. There are no high walls, electric fences and impenetrable gates. It appears that they trust their neighbours.

With my guide Zamile out the front of Guga S’Thebe Cultural Centre, Langa

Meanwhile, Soweto is now much like any other neighbourhood. I found it completely unremarkable (aside from the history), even gentrified in some parts, and a caricature of itself in others. The most trouble you’ll have in Soweto is shaking the touts or paying too much for coffee.

Coffee and curios in Soweto

How do I get to the townships?

Langa and Soweto are both accessible by public transport and taxi, and for independent travellers, these are the best options. When visiting Langa, I caught a taxi in and then a bus back to Cape Town. To reach Soweto, taxis are more efficient, though the trains are a good option if you have the time. Many tour companies include Langa and Soweto as add-ons to their regular city tours, including the red Hop-On, Hop-Off buses and this may feel more comfortable for some travellers. Finally, it is NOT recommended to drive to Langa or Soweto – leave your hire car at the hotel.

Tips for visiting Langa and Soweto

As mentioned earlier, a guided tour is the best way to see Langa. There are many options, listed in guidebooks and found online, and they cater for independent travellers and group tours. I took a taxi to the Guga S’Thebe Cultural Centre and arranged a guide from there. The centre opened in 2005 and runs art, craft, and music programs for Langa residents. The 90 minute walking tour passed through the oldest sections of Langa and some of the newer developments, as well as covering the history of the township. Meanwhile, in Soweto, there are many tours options, or you can easily and safely explore by yourself. In the main precinct of Vilakazi, there are streets signs and murals that recount important events in Soweto’s history, and several museums.

Langa resident Nomvana at Guga S’Thebe Cultural Centre, Langa

If you want to share your own experiences of visiting South Africa’s townships, please drop your comments below. Thanks for reading, and happy travels!